Chandni Chowk

It’s funny, when you have an Indian guide with you in Delhi, the touts (hucksters, devious cabbies, etc) seem to leave you alone. The walk from the hotel to the train station was pretty uneventful. In fact, Prittam was even able to ask a few people questions along the way without incident. We quickly made our way to the train.

For the most part riding the trains is a reasonably pleasant experience (except at rush hour--more on that later). The trains are clean, well, lit, modern and quiet. Unfortunately, I have the misfortune of being 6’8” and white. Because of this, I may as well be painted bright green and carrying a small goat.

We took the train to Chandni Chowk which is a shopping district located in Old Delhi. We exited the train, quickly slipped past a large shrine with dozens of worshippers located just outside the station and down a narrow alley spilling out onto the sidewalk.

Chandni Chowk from Ryan Schulz on Vimeo.

Untitled from Ryan Schulz on Vimeo.

Words cannot explain, especially to the uninitiated Westerner what the scene looks like. Intense. Relentless. Chaotic yet somehow oddly orderly. The sidewalks are full of people, the streets are full rickshaws, trucks, and cars, the air is thick with diesel and noises coming from every direction. The shops vary from clothing to electronics, banks and food stalls. There are banks, industrial supply shops, and alleys that radiate away from the main artery every 30 or 40 feet. Down these dark passages are countless additional shops and food stalls.

One question came to mind every time we went to a shopping district: How many saris can one country consume? A single shop selling saris might offer 1000s or more. And there are countless sari shops to put it mildly.

We continued swimming down the sidewalk dodging beggars, shopkeepers, construction workers, shoppers, holes in the sidewalk, scaffolding, etc, etc. We eventually sought refuge in a eyeglasses store. Why? I still don’t know. It was quiet, I’ll say that. So quiet, we stayed. Mike and I each bought sunglasses and new prescription lenses and frames. We spent a few thousand rupees, but for a little while we bought a sanctuary.

After we gave our deposit, and filled out the paperwork, we left, and had our first street crossing experience in Delhi. When you look at the street and the volume and speed of the traffic, it seems an impossible proposition, but I learned something: no one actually wants to hit you with their car, truck, bus, rickshaw, or bike. After all, if they did, they would have to stop.